Radio controlled microlight
Titanium brackets for ultimate strength and lightweight
In alot of my brackets ive used titanium as the material,
The main reasons for this are that it is hugely strong, lightweight and very resistant to corrosion.
Although not as lightweight as aluminium size for size as its around 60% denser but being around twice as strong means i could make much smaller slimline brackets which are probably lighter and still much stronger than aluminium or plastic which would need to be alot more substantial to be used for this type of bracket.
My 'clamping' designs when testing allowed for things to be moved around by undoing one m3 bolt, this elimiated the need for gluing as this would be a pain to reposition parts or for drilling holes in the fiberglass spars as this would weaken them substantially!
Once tightened up there is no chance of these moving due to the clamping force combined with the surface finish of the wire eroded hole allowing it to grip the fiberglass.
pilots head was Modified from an rc bike rider,
head turning was done with a servo mounted in his chest
Inboard finned spats
Inboard finned spats,
Provide yaw stability and stay damage free in tipovers or when landing in long grass
My floating keel fin design to allow sail shift, as on real flexwing microlights and hang gliders provides effortless weightshift control and stability, A feature overlooked on rc microlights up until now
Self centering front steering
Early prototype of my 'self centering steering' a design that was on my very first microlight which increases the resistance to tipping over massively, Using rake and castor to provide the natural steering centering physics. countless crosswind landings onto grass has proved this to be very effective, Also acts as a servo saver as an added bonus :)
Wing steering design
My unique wing steering design was also a design developed from my very first microlight,
This allows the wing and trike to act freely of one another (as per real ones) and still allow you to make steering and pitch inputs.
This allows greater stability and realism, eliminating some of the pendulum effect and allowing the wing to do the stabilising.
This makes wind and turbulant weather flying also alot more manageable due to being able to 'absorb' the bumps in rough air.
Again as another big bonus this design also provides excellent protection for the hitec hs225mg servos, eliminating any unnessesary shocks and stress extending their life massively.
Direct steering plate design
After having the 'floating spring' steering idea i then had to think of a way of transfering this steering input into the wing
As the wing frame is only made of 5mm fiberglass and wanting to stick with this for its great balance of light weight, flexibilty and strength, it also had the drawback of not being very good in torsion.
I needed to make a wing steering design that transfered all the energy from the servos through the wing else it would just twist the keel and do nothing
The best way i found to do this was using a 6mm aluminum sleeve over the keel and attach everything to that due to aluminium being alot better in torsion and also being stronger for the hang bracket point and the bearing to ride on.
The clamping kingpost/'a frame' mount is also mounted to this alloy sleeve, aswell as the bracket the servo arms come up to,
This means all the energy goes from the servos, up the arms, pushes off the steering arm plate and tranfers that force through the aluminium sleeve and down the 'a-frame' to the corners when its can pull the flying wires which are mounted halfway up the leading edge of the wing,
This offers a big increase in leverage and better steering.
On the early version i had a problem with the steering plate bracket slipping slightly on the alumimium sleeve and putting the trim out, to solve this i ran a cable down to each corner of the 'A frame' to hold it in position,
This is now a really proven and solid design which i am pretty proud of :)
Ill post some better pics to explain this when i get some
A: This was my early suspension design i did, its changed very little apart from removing the cable and now using bent 'tangs' on the plate to limit suspension movement so looks cleaner
B: The rear suspension hasnt been 'unlocked' yet, all the pivoting brackets have been made and are fitted but i need to add a spring bracket to allow it to move,
This will be done very soon.
C: this is the suspension so far on my 1:3rd scale microlight project.
An idea ive been thinking (ok.. over thinking) for a while,
Initially having ideas of cables and pulleys with a continuous servo and a slipper mechanism on the pulley so would fully retract and then slip a clutch so as to not burn out the servo or break gears,
Was a sound idea and would of worked but was overly complex and would take up too much space,
I thought using bellcranks would be a neater and more reliable way of doing things,
And using a mechanical stop would take the pressure off the servo when the wheels are extended.
After making a mockup with holes everywhere for adjustment, i got the measurements i needed and made it properly
Still a few tweaks to do and gotta join them up but overall im happy with it :)